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Oaxaca (Part 2 of 3): Culture and Croissants

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Festive streets in Mitla, Oaxaca

(Haven’t read Oaxaca Part 1 yet? Click here.)

After two weeks recovering from the flu, we were finally well enough to hit the road again. We drove a loop from El Tule to the Pacific Coast beaches and back (we had to return to Overlander Oasis to install a Propex propane heater that was being shipped to the campground). We had a great time travelling through Oaxaca state.

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Google Maps says that this entire loop takes 12 hours to drive. Google Maps is full of you-know-what. The loop took 19 hours over 4 driving days. We drove for 7.5 hours to get from Oaxaca to Playa Zipolite via Hwy 175 – a steep, winding, narrow road that is both breathtaking and nausea-inducing.

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The central square of Santa Maria del Tule (El Tule).

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Oaxaca state is known for mezcal, a liquor made from the agave plant (shown here, in front of the van). Traditional mezcal tastes like a smoky tequila – similar to a peaty scotch.

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Zapotec ruins in Mitla

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Mineral formations at Hierve El Agua.

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This pipe organ in Tlacochahuaya was built in 1735 and is still being played today

We spent two relaxing weeks camped at Playa Zipolite, a hippy-nudist beach along Oaxaca’s Pacific Coast. We intended to only stay a few days, but we were drawn to the chilled-out vibe and cheap camping ($6 CAD per night at Cabanas La Habana). Vendors came by the van every day selling all sorts of nourishment, including tamales, pizza, rum-infused coconuts, and our favourite…chocolate croissants. It was tough to leave the beach.

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Cabanas La Habana at Playa Zipolite

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We bought chocolate croissants from this guy every morning. He always came to the van between 8:00 and 8:30 am, just as we were having coffee.
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We bought chocolate croissants from this guy every morning. He always came to the van between 8:00 and 8:30 am, just as we were having coffee.

Our favourite restaurant for cocktails and dinner was Posada Mexico. It was a great place to watch people and enjoy the sunset.
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Our favourite restaurant for cocktails and dinner was Posada Mexico. It was a great place to watch people and enjoy the sunset.

We left Playa Zipolite just before the Easter weekend to avoid the noisy hordes of Mexican tourists flocking to the beaches for Semana Santa (Holy Week). By Good Friday, the vibe of our beach turned from “hippy reggae chill” to “college party central”. It was time to get away from the coast and get back to El Tule.

Coming back to Overlander Oasis felt like coming home. Leanne and Calvin welcomed us with hugs and Morena showered us with doggy love. We reunited with some familiar faces and also met newcomers who are doing the Pan-American journey in their 4×4 trucks.

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Chris and Mallary from Virginia, with their Toyota truck ‘Lola’

Canadians-turned-Americans Travis and Amanda are also traveling in their Toyota
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Canadians-turned-Americans Travis and Amanda are also traveling in their Toyota truck ‘Bruno’

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Lise and Laurent from France, with their Land Cruiser ‘Dumbo’

Gregor and I were well rested from our time on the beach and were happy to be around fellow overlanders. We were ready for the next stage of our stay in Oaxaca…pimping out the van.

6 thoughts on “Oaxaca (Part 2 of 3): Culture and Croissants

  1. Laurie

    Hey guys, Just catching up on your blog and the counter just flipped to 4 months!
    Wow!! Quite an adventure and on to country #3. Think of you guys often. Big hugs.
    Laurie

    1. Janice Post author

      Whoa! We didn’t even notice that we’ve been on the road for that long! Good thing someone out there is paying attention 🙂 We’re looking forward to exploring Belize. Scheduled to cross the border tomorrow! A bit nervous, as Mexico has been so easy. But we must see what’s on the other side…

    1. Janice Post author

      Mexico is amazing – I had no idea of how diverse it was. Hope Alex is doing much better now. We’ll keep sending good vibes to you guys.